Terra Marique, Edinburgh, restaurant review

Forget the Sexy Pineapple Diet this Veganuary and visit Terra Marique instead, says Gaby Soutar

Never mind cabbage soup or grapefruit.

One of the more esoteric weight loss plans of the Seventies was The Sexy Pineapple Diet by Inge and Sten Hegeler.

It involved swapping regular food two days a week for pineapple, in return for a slimmer waist and a yeah baby mojo like Austin Powers.

Then thereโ€™s the sleeping beauty diet, which was first referenced in Jacqueline Susannโ€™s 1966 book Valley of the Dolls and involves being sedated for 20 hours a day to avoid temptation.

Anyway, now that weโ€™ve stopped partying, snacking, drinking and singing a clunkier version of Princeโ€™s 1999, itโ€™s time to get on the 2020 wagon.

I wouldnโ€™t recommend the above, or the more modern keto and primal diets, but everyone seems to agree on the Mediterranean.

Thus, I am on en route to this new Italian restaurant, in the shadow of that โ€œhouse on the hillโ€ (as I once heard a tourist call it).

Itโ€™s in the former premises of longterm resident Il Castello and is owned by Ilaria Torre and Fabrizio Babbucci, who were working the front of house on our visit.

Itโ€™s completely dead inside, so we get the pick of the tables, and choose something on the mezzanine, beside a radiator, as if we were cats.

To suit the land and sea theme, the walls are cobalt and covered in hexagon-shaped photographs of bucolic scenes. Itโ€™s nice, so Iโ€™ll let them off with the Katie Melua on the stereo (not the trillion bicycles in Beijing song, thankfully).

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After weโ€™ve scoffed some gratis fat green olives and bread, and had an icy negroni (ยฃ8), our starter of vellutata di fagioli (ยฃ6.50) arrives. This thick and olive oil drizzled black-eyed bean veloute smells nutty.

Itโ€™s smooth, creamy and substantial and thereโ€™s a frilly cuff of roasted kale on the top. Weโ€™re not sure where the billed crispy pigโ€™s cheek is though. We guddle about with the spoon and think about a loony dook, but there are no solid or crispy bits of meat.

No matter, itโ€™s still lush.

Iโ€™ve gone for the lighter option of capesante (ยฃ12). There are four halves of scallop, like waning gibbous moons, all piled on top of a tangy aubergine caponata, which is studded with loads of pine nuts. In the middle, like a magicianโ€™s guillotine, thereโ€™s a lacy sail of crispy Parmesan.

From the Mains Terra section, we try their earthy homemade trofie (ยฃ11). Served on a long plate, like a trough, this is a huge plateful, with butter yellow twists, which resemble drill bits, and porky crumbles of sausage, bitter clods of romanesco broccoli and a creamy sauce thatโ€™s scented with saffron.

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Order the soup and this pasta dish, and you wonโ€™t have to eat for the rest of the week, potentially a fortnight. You wonโ€™t have to wear a jacket either, because your internal combustion engine will be well fuelled.

When it came to the Mains Marique section dish of baccala (ยฃ21), I was expecting something different. Rather than salted fish, I had an ordinary bit of cod โ€“ a huge silky piece, with a celeriac cream and herby soft braised lentils. There was none of the billed nduja mousse, but probably four would have been a crowd anyway.

Thereโ€™s a short dessert menu featuring tiramisu (ยฃ5.50) and whatnot.

Since weโ€™re both on a diet, we went for the three scoops of their ice-cream (ยฃ6.50), made in-house, and a panna-cotta (ยฃ5.50).

The gelato was rather nice, with a scoop of apple cinnamon, another
of espresso and praline, and the third boring old vanilla, which Iโ€™d only ordered because my dining partner had insisted, even though he was soup and pasta-ed up to the rafters.

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He let it melt, and only managed half of his pudding, which was topped with flaked almonds, orange syrup and a flurry of icing sugar.

After all that, I think the only thing that will stop our pot bellies from getting any pottier is the sedation option.

Only problem is, Iโ€™m pretty sure weโ€™ll end up sleep-walking to Terra Marique for more of that trofie.

Terra Marique, Edinburgh

36 Castle Terrace, Edinburgh

(0131-229 0070, www.terra-marique.co.uk)

Scotsman Review
Our criteria 
  • Ambience - It's important that a restaurant is inviting. We rate the decor, comfort and atmosphere.
  • Drink - Is the wine or cocktail list as exciting as the food, or does it fall short? Same goes for soft drinks.ย 
  • Food - We judge dishes on flavour, but also use of produce, cooking skill and presentation
  • Service - The staff and pace of a meal can make or break a meal out.
  • Value - From the food on the plate to service and surroundings, we check that you get what you're paying for.
Ambiance
8/10
Food
8/10
Total
0%
Gaby Soutar is a lifestyle editor at The Scotsman. She has been reviewing restaurants for The Scotsman Magazine since 2007 and edits the weekly food pages.
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