Iโm not a fan of the phrase โhidden gemโ, when it comes to restaurants.
Itโs too much of a cliche, and they so rarely fit that description. However, if I was asked to compile a list of them, Iโd probably include this independent eatery. Perhaps thatโs something to do with its liminal location, at the junction between Bruntsfield and Morningside.
I sometimes forget itโs there, until I pass by, and see the gilded fish logo on the front door.
Although I donโt usually review restaurants a second time, this place, owned by chef Stuart Smith, is an exception. I last wrote about it during lockdown, when it launched an excellent takeaway service.
During those grim years, it survived by selling lobster rolls from its doorway. I never waited in line, but they mustโve been good, since they regularly inspired queues along Colinton Road.
Anyway, I always promised to return in slightly more normal times and the fact that it just celebrated its third birthday with the launch of a downstairs wine bar seemed reason enough. Thereโs also a new small plates menu, though some people are funny about those. For that lot, there is a selection of bigger dishes and a very reasonable set menu at one course for ยฃ16, two for ยฃ20 and three for ยฃ24.
However, we stuck with the shareable options, and I tried a drink too - the Improved Sour (ยฃ12), with rye, amaretto, lune d'abricot, citrus and bitters. This mixture really scratched my cocktail itch, where so many others have failed to hit the spot.
Our first savoury course to land was the salt cod mousse (ยฃ7) - a salty and buttery-textured ball of pale fishy joy, which was topped with a tarn of bright green parsley oil and served with two sturdy planks of toasted bread. It prompted a wave of contentment, as the tips of my toes finally defrosted.
Next was the pickled mussels (ยฃ10) option. Now, I love pickles - egg, gherkin, onion, rollmop, Iโll take them all. These molluscs were suitably zingy, and came with a fresh and vinegary pale green jus that contained tiny nibs of celery and celeriac, with a horseradish bite. I used the spoon provided to scoop up every drop.
The smoked haddock croquettes (ยฃ7) were the comforting option. There were three of them, so I couldโve put one in each sock, and a single glove, to use as hand and foot warmers. They featured crispy russet shells and were suitably fluffy inside, with a blob of lush lovage mayo for dipping.
The next course was mine, all mine, since my dining partner isnโt bothered about scallops. Heโs always been a strange boy. This example was a single fat hand-dived Skye stub (ยฃ7) that Iโd chosen from the specials board. It was toasted on top and came with a rich slosh of melted gochujang butter, for a mouth-coating taste of Korea. I plan to eat a dozen while watching the latest installments of Squid Game: The Challenge.
The only non-fishy savoury course weโd chosen could easily hold its own. It was an assemblage of muhammara (ยฃ11), which was topped with tiddlywinks of feral lamb merguez sausage, chopped up crinkles of barbecued hispi cabbage and crumbled walnuts. Another dish that was right up my street.
I have to also mention the fries here (ยฃ5) for they are good. Iโm usually more of a fat chip person, but something to do with the extreme straight-out-of-the-fryer heat, salty coating and generous helping of mayo on the side, converted me to their skinny-Minnie ways. If youโre a fish restaurant, your chips have to be on point. These absolutely are.
Although weโve recently converted to a one pudding between two sort of healthy lifestyle, we had a little space left, so went for both choices on this occasion. Hooray for living our best lives.
The tonka bean pannacotta (ยฃ7), had upmarket breakfast vibes, with its oaty topping, salty miso and stewed apple additions. Loved it, as well as the dark chocolate mousse (ยฃ7), which came with a quenelle of yoghurt, a hidden heart of soft sponge, and crumbly bits of buckwheat.
Iโm glad to have rediscovered this place and sorry that I always forget about it, in favour of all the overrated venues in the centre of town.
Itโs not hidden, but it is certainly a gem.
