Shucks, Glasgow, review - we try the seafood diet at Cail Bruich's new sister restaurant

This seafood bar has opened in Hyndland

Iโ€™m cursed, when it comes to social planning.

The best laid ones never work.

In contrast, if Iโ€™m flying by the seat of my pants, things usually turn out alright.

Thus, I havered over booking my table at this new seafood restaurant, which is owned by the team behind Glasgowโ€™s Michelin-starred Cail Bruich, Epicures and Brett.

Lots of venues - quite rightly - have recently introduced no-show charges, and will hold your credit card, in case you donโ€™t turn up or canโ€™t make it after all.

This place is ยฃ35 per person if you cancel with less than 48 hours notice.

I was certain that, as soon as I stuck my moth-eaten debit details in there, something bad would happen.

Iโ€™d be patient zero with the first case of squirrelpox, the train tracks would melt, Iโ€™d go on a roller-coaster and a screw would come loose, or a crow would peck me on the head - again - except this time itโ€™d lobotomise me.

It is how my life works, after all. Thus, I crossed my fingers and left it until the same day, which was fine, as there was plenty of space.

Surprising, as this excellently-named restaurant is one of Glasgowโ€™s hottest new openings.

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Itโ€™s rather lovely inside, with a smallish bar downstairs and a smart mezzanine level, where you can see their coppery fish scale wall art.

Thereโ€™s a Champagne trolley too, so you can imagine youโ€™re on Concorde.

We did the obligatory โ€œoohingโ€ and โ€œaahingโ€ over the Ruinart and Dom Perignon, after the maitre dโ€™ wheeled them over, like they were bonnie babies in a pram, but weโ€™d already looked at the menu and made our decisions.

I went for the special cocktail, Last Word (ยฃ10). It was jade-coloured, ice-cold, werscht and magnificent, with Cail Bruichโ€™s own gin thatโ€™s been made in collaboration with the Garden Shed Gin Drinks Co, chartreuse, lime and a single maraschino cherry, which had sunk to the bottom of the martini glass.

My husband opted for a reviving glass of the Gustave Lorentz Creamant Dโ€™Alsace Brut - NV (ยฃ9).

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The starters are divided into Snacks; Raw, Cured and Smoked, or Shellfish, all with seafood thatโ€™s sourced from John Vallance at Glasgow Fish Market.

The snack of tater tots (ยฃ9.75) was a low rent foodstuff gone fancy. There was a dish of these deep-fried and hot potato pellets, all covered in a Spongebob-hued thatch of grated Sardinian pecorino and, on the side, was a caviar tin that was full of a tangy salty mixture of herring roe and creme fraiche.

Once you popped, you could not stop.

The raw ceviche-ish kingfish dish (ยฃ13) was light and bright, in contrast to the feral tater tots. This plate looked beautiful, with petals of white fish and marbled swirls of fermented green tomato, vinegar and citrus, plus micro coriander and soy roasted pumpkin seeds that tasted like Marmite.

We sooked the bowl clean, like catfish on the side of a tank.

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The main courses include fish and chips, halibut, or their take on surf and turf with Iberico pork and scallop.

However, I went for the Peterhead coley (ยฃ19) - a compact and meaty block of fish, which came with just a couple of firm and bouncy orange mussels, a few struts of charred asparagus and an Arbroath Smokie cream. It was buttery and rich, like Douglas, the Lurpack Man, after winning the lottery.

From the On the Bone section, weโ€™d also ordered the half Shetland plaice (ยฃ25), and theyโ€™d given us the head end, which must surely be luckier than a tail. It was a massive portion, and each mouthful, especially the cheeks, was downy and perfect, like eating oceanic candyfloss.

We had asked the waitress if weโ€™d need chips on the side, and were very happy that she hadnโ€™t up-sold us. There was enough protein to fuel a marathon.

This came with an orange and caper brown butter, as well as a mixture of fennel, smoked olives, capers and orange wedges.

There were just a couple of puddings, and the Valrhona chocolate with Blackthorn Sea Salt, caramel and blueberries (ยฃ8) had our name on it.

Unfortunately, we thought weโ€™d be smartypants, and head across to Epicures - their sister restaurant - for pudding. I havenโ€™t visited this all-day hang-out yet, and wanted to see what was in store. Only carrot cake, brownies and pastries, it turns out, none of which we were in the market for.

Bad decision. We shouldโ€™ve stuck it out at Shucks.

Maybe that crow was trying to tell me something.

168 Hyndland Road

Glasgow

(0141 473 0080,ย www.shucksglasgow.com)

plaice
kingfish

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Scotsman Review
Our criteria 
  • Ambience - It's important that a restaurant is inviting. We rate the decor, comfort and atmosphere.
  • Drink - Is the wine or cocktail list as exciting as the food, or does it fall short? Same goes for soft drinks.ย 
  • Food - We judge dishes on flavour, but also use of produce, cooking skill and presentation
  • Service - The staff and pace of a meal can make or break a meal out.
  • Value - From the food on the plate to service and surroundings, we check that you get what you're paying for.
Ambiance
8.5/10
Food
8.5/10
Total
0%
Gaby Soutar is a lifestyle editor at The Scotsman. She has been reviewing restaurants for The Scotsman Magazine since 2007 and edits the weekly food pages.
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