Is there anything nicer than afternoon tea, especially for those with a sweet tooth? The traditional meal, tea and a light snack, is said to date back to the nineteenth century and Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford.
These days, eating impeccable finger sandwiches and an array of small pastries, cakes and scones (which are believed have originated all the way back to Scotland in the 1500s before the treat made its way to the esteemed "royal tearooms”) along with copious cups of tea is now something reserved for special occasions and usually in grand hotels.
One of these is Gleneagles, which is serving a champagne afternoon tea in their serene Gledevon dining room. Inspired by the golden age of train travel - and a nod to its heritage as one of the first railway hotels - this new dining treat honours Gleneagle’s origins as a beloved escape, when travel was a novelty, gatherings were grand, and journeys to the Scottish countryside promised both adventure and elegance.
What better excuse to eat, arguably, too much cake than around my birthday? Which is when I visited to try the luxury afternoon tea. With the dining room already busy, we took our seats by the window where we could see the lawn and this summer’s food pop-up, Coop, a fried chicken mini restaurant with dishes served from huts.
After ordering a glass of Moet and Chandon Brut rose champagne and a non-alcoholic fizz for the driver, we had a chance to look at the beautiful menu.
With information on how the dishes related to the old days of train travel, it wasn’t long before we were enjoying the canape - King's Oscietra caviar on a crispy potato waffle with creamy creme fraiche.
This was followed by beef tea, which we’d now recognise as the collagen-rich bone broth. An explanation for the inclusion of this goes back to the days when travellers drank hot beef broth for warmth and as fuel for days spent in the countryside undertaking seasonal pursuits.
Before long it was time for the sandwiches, and to order our tea. As well as the traditional morning brew, there’s a huge choice of teas I’d never heard of and all very exotic.
I chose the boozy-sounding Pipacha oolong port wine cask tea from China. The Oolong tea leaves are matured in port wine barrels from Porto, which is right up my street. The tea is still delicate but with a fruity nose and finish, making it an ideal accompaniment to the savouries and cakes.
The sandwiches and snacks were a lovely modern take on British classics such as the ‘fish and chip’ smoked cod’s roe on top of a chip of potato terrine all doused in malt vinegar. There was also cured trout with smoked salmon mousse on a rye cracker; truffled egg toast with caviar and chives; Selkirk bannock, ruby beetroot and whipped sheep curd and St Brides chicken and chervil val au vent.
These were excellent little morsels ahead of the sandwiches, which were the classic cucumber with dill creme fraiche and lemon; Tweed Valley roast beef with horseradish, mustard and celeriac and devilled crab served in a milk roll with coriander and finger lime.
For a palate cleanser and “fleeting moment of delight”, the next course is a punchy bowl of strawberry sorbet topped with champagne.
Then it was on to, arguably, the best part of any afternoon tea - the cakes and scones. Every single one was perfectly presented, but it was the orange and chocolate cake, and Perthshire duck egg and heather honey custard tart that were like mini artworks. The orange cake, decorated to look like a real orange and the tart, like a boiled egg - served in an egg cup.
The other cakes were a nostalgic raspberry and lemon French fancy; blueberry and gingernut cheesecake; and sour cherry and milk chocolate wagonwheel. The buttermilk scones, served warm with clotted cream and Gleneages jam, were plain and sultana and I could’ve eaten about 10, they were so good.
After a leisurely couple of hours relaxing and watching the beautiful scenery outside, it was time to head back to reality but not before a lovely parting gift of a tin of old fashioned boiled sweets.
It’s afternoons like this that make you remember how much of a good idea afternoon tea really is. That Duchess really was on to something.
The Gleneagles Glendevon afternoon tea is served from Friday to Monday. Priced from £75 per person, with Champagne options from £92. Find out more via the Gleneagles website.
