Kitchen Table, Edinburgh, review - the cafe from Twelve Triangles is a slice of autumn heaven

This Easter Road destination has switched from shop and takeaway to sit-in venue

The kitchen table is the heart of the home.

Well, thatโ€™s what they say, but our two seater doesnโ€™t count.

Itโ€™s usually the station for theย air fryer, as well as ignored household bills and a large bowl of neglected fruit, with one powdery green tangerine lurking at the bottom.

Thankfully, Edinburgh (and Melrose) bakery, Twelve Triangles, has a metaphorical one that theyโ€™re willing to share with you.

Theyโ€™ve recently turned their Easter Road shop into more of a sit-in venture. Itโ€™s something theyโ€™ve already experimented with, at their Duke Street outlet. Iโ€™d been there before, but this seems like a more considered effort.

Of course, after perusing the cakes at the front of the shop, you can still takeaway. On my visit, there was a line-up that included their always amazing almond croissants, plus a syrupy-looking pear and frangipane tart; an iced chocolate, almond and olive oil cake, and savoury pan Suisse, among many other treats.

If youโ€™re sitting in, pull up one of the mismatched wooden chairs in the white-painted room. We found a table for deux at the back of the space, beside the kitchen hatch, where the bell was ringing every minute or two.

There is a menu of large or small plates.

When it came to the biggies, they were offering my dream toastie, with Baron Bigod Brie, fig chutney, pecan conserve and pickles (ยฃ9), but this place doesnโ€™t only do sarnies. Instead, I chose the hash browns (ยฃ12.50) option, which completely converted me to these US breakfast faves. They usually leave me feeling disappointed, but these golden planks were light, sea salted and crunchy, and topped by a single sesame-seed-plastered frilly-edged fried egg. They came alongside fiery kimchi and chopped greens, including frilly cavolo nero and cabbage, which had been toasted up with a bit of gochujang. What a breakfast dish. Eat your heart out, Sugar Puffs.

My other half had gone for one of their focaccia sandwiches (ยฃ12.50). It featured a huge doorstop of ridged golden bread, filled with a winning combo of chicken thigh meat, squares of chicken skin, roast fennel bulbs, a buttering of jalapeno labneh and paleย Barbieย pink rhubarb relish.

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There was a spicy bit here, and a pickle flavour there. This generously filled bap managed to hold your interest through 20 or so jaw-dislocating chomps. It was almost a take on the Christmas leftover sandwiches that a lot of chains do, expect a trillion times more refined.

The small plates list also includes a pickle plate (ยฃ3.50) and tenderstem broccoli tempura (ยฃ6), but weโ€™d gone for  pink fir potatoes (ยฃ9.50), because I donโ€™t get out of bed for fewer than two tattie-based dishes. There were about six of these knobbly tubers, in an olive oily pickled walnut salsa verde, with a scattering of fried capers over the top.

To drink, as well as a pair of good flat whites (ยฃ3.60 each) we went for their autumnal specials (ยฃ2.90 each) ofย plum and ginger shrub, and winter spiced pear and bramble, both of which made me come over all mellow and fruitful.

Itโ€™s funny how a drink can make you feel a bit more positive about the season. The same happened with their pumpkin and mascarpone cinnamon bun (ยฃ4.75). Iโ€™m not sure why I chose it, as it was second or third on my wish list, probably since pumpkin seeds are the Quasimodos of the seed world. However, it tasted fantastic, with an orange-coloured pumpkin and olive oil dough, and a seam of spiced butter and dark sugar, plus a splurge gunโ€™s worth of mascarpone frosting. I NEED to have one of these again, so Iโ€™m praying itโ€™s not a transient special.

While I scoffed that, he had a slice of the sophisticated Basque cheesecake (ยฃ6.50), which was mousse-y and not-too-sweet, with a traditional burnt top. Gorgeous.

I tried Glasgow's 'hottest new restaurant' from Michelin-recommended team - it won't disappointย 

Iโ€™m a big cafe fan, especially in the winter, and this is the kitchen table that I want to sit around all season.

Forget my own. Until someone has disposed of that tangerine and dealt with the bills, Iโ€™m not going anywhere near it.

22-23 Easter Road, Edinburgh, UK
22-23 Easter Road, Edinburgh, UK
0131 629 0404
Scotsman Review
Our criteria 
  • Ambience - It's important that a restaurant is inviting. We rate the decor, comfort and atmosphere.
  • Drink - Is the wine or cocktail list as exciting as the food, or does it fall short? Same goes for soft drinks.ย 
  • Food - We judge dishes on flavour, but also use of produce, cooking skill and presentation
  • Service - The staff and pace of a meal can make or break a meal out.
  • Value - From the food on the plate to service and surroundings, we check that you get what you're paying for.
Ambiance
9/10
Drinks
9/10
Food
9/10
Service
9/10
Value
9/10
Total
0%
Gaby Soutar is a lifestyle editor at The Scotsman. She has been reviewing restaurants for The Scotsman Magazine since 2007 and edits the weekly food pages.
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