Chaakoo, Edinburgh, review - there's a new Indian restaurant on Lothian Road

This is the third branch of this Indian restaurant chain

When it comes to working-from-home office lunches, our supplies seem to deteriorate quickly.

Sometimes, Friday will involve scraping peanut butter onto a fuzzy heel of bread, or browsing through the withered cheese scraps on level two of the fridge.

Itโ€™s like they say, about the Ps: preparation prevents pitiful provisions performance.

The last time our pantry went prematurely bare, there wasnโ€™t even an egg going begging.

On that fateful day, my colleague/husband and I headed for this new place. We knew weโ€™d overshoot the designated lunch hour a bit. Just donโ€™t tell my boss, or his.

Chaakoo is in the former premises of burger place, Byron, and is inspired by Irani cafes. Essentially, this is very like Dishoom, though they donโ€™t do the ever popular breakfast thatโ€™s offered by that chain, so donโ€™t bother asking for a bacon naan.

There are two branches of Chaakoo in Glasgow: one on St Vincent Street and another on Ruthven Lane. The owner is DRG (Di Maggioโ€™s Restaurant Group), who, also have Spanish restaurant Cafe Andaluz and Mexican venue Topolabamba at 93 Lothian Road.

Their newest venue is a small plate affair - arenโ€™t they all, these days - so order two or three each, or five to share, they say.

We read the All Day Menu while warming up, after a Tollcross mini monsoon, with a tiny pot of their excellent and very sweet and cinnamon-y chai (ยฃ4). My umbrella dripped in a corner, near the booths that are labelled First Class and Second Class.

Dishes arrive very speed-ily, and are delivered by their smiley young staff.

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From the Irani kebabs section, we had gone for the chicken tikka (ยฃ7.15), which is โ€œwhisky chip smokedโ€, and was the first dish to arrive. They went in on a high, with three pieces of soft and pillarbox red chicken that provided a real suckerpunch in the gob. Fiery, and there was an equally hot green chutney dip on the side, as well as an oniony salad, so they could triple-down on the spice.

My taste buds felt like a dead leg, but I still enjoyed the Kerala monkfish (ยฃ10.95) from the Chefโ€™s Special Curries section. It featured clods of soft chunky fish and the sauce, though a bit thin, was sweet and coconut-y, with mustard seeds clinging to the inside of the small ceramic bowl.

Our jinga kushrang (ยฃ10.95) was pleasant too. Theyโ€™d been pretty generous with the prawns, since there were nearly a dozen jostling in the dish, along with lots of chopped red peppers and coriander. The tomato-based sauce was slightly lacking in depth and didnโ€™t have the โ€œrich and velvetyโ€ texture promised on the menu, but there was a pleasingly gingery tinge.

The third dish was one of the Humble Curries - a kofta one (ยฃ7.75), with three dense lamb bollards in a light and tomatoey jus that was topped with fried onions and dotted with nigella seeds. On the side, we had a slightly under-fired garlic naan (ยฃ3.60), with its flavour provided by a splurge of green oil, and a portion of lemon rice (ยฃ3.60), though, for the same price, they also offer jeera rice, masala fries and other sides.

Since we still hadnโ€™t used up our designated lunch hour, we squeezed in a dessert before the bus home was due.

I tried Glasgow's 'hottest new restaurant' from Michelin-recommended team - it won't disappointย 

Our shared portion of mango and banana crumble (ยฃ5.45) was tooth-shiveringly sweet. It consisted of pieces of cooked squishy banana in a thick mango puree, with a layer of what seemed to be crunched up shortbread over the top. I found it quite comforting, even if this option was bereft without any custard on the side. At least weโ€™d ordered a scoop of their decent honeycomb ice-cream (ยฃ1.75) to compensate.

And an okay flat white (ยฃ2.95), since I would have a full email inbox to tackle soon. If weโ€™d been off duty, we might have added some of their cocktails, or lingered over a lassi.

I wouldnโ€™t have minded, since itโ€™s not bad here. Yes, there are better places nearby - Tuk Tuk, for instance - but the food was an improvement on what was in our fridge at home.

Noย scrag-ends for me. Well,ย until next Friday anyway.

kofta curry

I tried the 'hidden gem' Scottish chef's table restaurant with seasonal menu that is a Michelin Star contender
Chaakoo Bombay Cafe, Lothian Road, Edinburgh, UK
Chaakoo Bombay Cafe, Lothian Road, Edinburgh, UK, EH3 9AN
0131 202 5755
Scotsman Review
Our criteria 
  • Ambience - It's important that a restaurant is inviting. We rate the decor, comfort and atmosphere.
  • Drink - Is the wine or cocktail list as exciting as the food, or does it fall short? Same goes for soft drinks.ย 
  • Food - We judge dishes on flavour, but also use of produce, cooking skill and presentation
  • Service - The staff and pace of a meal can make or break a meal out.
  • Value - From the food on the plate to service and surroundings, we check that you get what you're paying for.
Ambiance
7/10
Food
7/10
Total
0%
Gaby Soutar is a lifestyle editor at The Scotsman. She has been reviewing restaurants for The Scotsman Magazine since 2007 and edits the weekly food pages.
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