Laila, Edinburgh, restaurant review

This restaurant has style as well as substance says Gaby Soutar.

My granny used to cut her head out of photographs.

Iโ€™ve inherited her self-consciousness. Thatโ€™s why Iโ€™ll never be an Instagram star.

Iโ€™m sandwiched between a couple of them when I queue outside this new place.

Itโ€™s owned by the people behind Hanamโ€™s,ย Pomegranate,ย Pomegranate Express,ย Souqย and the capitalโ€™s only 100 per cent halal fish and chips shop, Deep Sea on Nicolson Street.

Their newest venture is a revamp of their olive-grove-themed venue, Lailaโ€™s Bistro, into a trendy Middle Eastern brunch joint.

Marketing consultant and executive chef, Sabrina Gali, has been responsible for the new look, branding and menu.

Sheโ€™s created the perfect backdrop for a portrait.

The girl in front of me gets her boyfriend to take a pic of her posing, framed by the marshmallow pink restaurant exterior, with its cascading swags of faux flowers and ferns.

As the only middle-aged person in the queue, Iโ€™m not going to take a selfie. The last time I did, the camera was angled so I resembled Tubbs in League of Gentlemen.

My lunch has been pre-booked for collection, but the first thing to arrive is the unicorn latte (ยฃ4.50), which I sip as Iโ€™m waiting.

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Thereโ€™s a lid on the cup, so I canโ€™t really see this coffee-free drink, which, apparently, is made from butterfly pea flower, maple syrup and cinnamon.

However, since Iโ€™ve already seen it on Instagram, I know that itโ€™s Smurf blue and covered with rainbow sprinkles.

It tastes balmy and sweet, and I sook the half-dissolved miniature โ€œhornsโ€ through the drinking hole.

Iโ€™m reminded of Pablo Escobar, who stapled a fake horn to a white horse, so one of his children could have a pet unicorn.

The horse subsequently died. Happy days. Still, no equines, mythical or not, were harmed in the making of this drink.

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Eventually, lunch is presented, with a free brownie to apologise for the wait (it was only 10 minutes late, and I enjoyed the people watching activity).

It came in boutique-y pink paper bags, as if this place were Laduree.

I had wanted to try their signature brunch dish of Aleppo eggs (ยฃ12.50) with garlic, herbed green yoghurt and Aleppo butter, but I didnโ€™t think theyโ€™d survive the car journey and Iโ€™m a bit squeamish about cold poachers.

Another day, when weโ€™re able to sit inside.

Instead, we went for a couple of their all-day pittas, which come with paprika-dusted skinny fries.

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Thereโ€™s the buttermilk chicken (ยฃ11.50) with Aleppo chilli, mayo, shredded white cabbage, rocket, crumbled feta and tomato.

Weโ€™d thought, with the restaurantโ€™s pink livery, this might be a dainty thing, but it was trucker-style hefty.

The sepia-coloured wrap was robust enough to hold onto its crispy, smoky, crunchy, garlicky and heat-spiked contents.

We also tried the grilled lamb pita (ยฃ13.50), which was filled with slabs of a dense and salty kofta-ish mixture, along with a mint pesto, feathery dill and pistachios.

Our two sides were definitely unnecessary, but someone had posted a picture of them on Instagram, and I must be more suggestible than I thought.

The lightly battered halloumi fries (ยฃ6) were quite oily, but lovely nonetheless.

Their lardy shame was slicked with an Oil of Ulay pink mayo and a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds.

While, their green goddess hummus (ยฃ6.50) was as pretty as itโ€™d looked in another photograph.

I wanted to slather it on like a face pack, and stick a couple of the radish slices on my eyes.

Maybe eternal youth WILL be mine.

It was a herby and extremely green tasting mixture, topped with a few whole chickpeas, chillies and amaranth sprigs.

However, we werenโ€™t sure what to do with it, beyond dipping a few of our skinny fries in there. Maybe we should have got some more pitta.

The black sesame vanilla cake (ยฃ6.95) was a pretty thing, with thin strata of colour - black, beige, red, then black again, like a striped school tie - on top of a chocolatey biscuit base.

It was very subtly flavoured - nutty and only faintly sugary. Too healthy-tasting for my obscenely sweet tastes.

The pair of inch thick buttermilk pancakes (ยฃ11.50) came with halved strawberries, mint leaves, an intensely perfumed rose syrup, which I was tempted to dab behind my ears and on my wrists, and a puff of pink candyfloss, which quickly vanished, like cherry blossoms on the Meadows.

Ironically, though, the halva and chocolate brownie (ยฃ4) weโ€™d got for free was easily my favourite of all three.

Very fancy, and it seems that Laila is more than just a photo opportunity for non-camera-shy humans (and their social media savvy dogs).

Laila

62 Cockburn Street, Edinburgh

How much?ย 

Lunch for two, excluding drinks, ยฃ55.9

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Scotsman Review
Our criteria 
  • Ambience - It's important that a restaurant is inviting. We rate the decor, comfort and atmosphere.
  • Drink - Is the wine or cocktail list as exciting as the food, or does it fall short? Same goes for soft drinks.ย 
  • Food - We judge dishes on flavour, but also use of produce, cooking skill and presentation
  • Service - The staff and pace of a meal can make or break a meal out.
  • Value - From the food on the plate to service and surroundings, we check that you get what you're paying for.
Ambiance
8/10
Food
7.5/10
Total
0%
Gaby Soutar is a lifestyle editor at The Scotsman. She has been reviewing restaurants for The Scotsman Magazine since 2007 and edits the weekly food pages.
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