Kyloe hit the headlines earlier this year when Edinburgh City Council told it to remove the 3D cow protruding from one of its windows.
Its response was to hold a wake for the fibre-glass ornament in a tongue-in-cheek protest at the local authority.
Surreal stunts aside, this gourmet steak restaurant has a lot to shout about.
The West End eaterie had come highly recommended by our fellow carnivorous friends, so when we wanted to celebrate my partner's new job, it seemed the perfect opportunity to make a reservation.
Unsurprisingly, it was busy on the Saturday night in question, but this only added to the atmosphere.
We were shown to a cowhide booth in the centre of the bustling first-floor venue, which was among the many Capital establishments to be involved in this month's Edinburgh Restaurant Festival.
With Andy Warhol-style pictures of cows hanging from the walls and rustic beer-barrel structures housing the lights, the restaurant is elegant but quirky.
We were served a platter of fresh, warm bread with a red pepper and fennel dip to nibble while we deliberated over the menu.
A delectable array of starters made me indecisive, but eventually I opted for the seared Isle of Skye scallops, beautifully presented over a tomato salad and Iberican ham; a succulent and moreish dish.
My companion went for a vast helping of steamed Loch Etive mussels - described in his words as the "best he'd ever tasted" and lifted by Thai spices, coconut milk and lime.
It would have been rude to choose anything other than steaks for our main course, given the theme of the restaurant, not that we were tempted by anything else.
Staff were more than happy to offer advice on the different cuts and specials, taking out the options on a wooden board.
We were not disappointed.
My huge juicy Scottish sirloin was perfectly cooked and tender, and I savoured every mouthful, washed down with a glass of rich Rioja.
My companion was more adventurous and went for one of the night's guest breeds - the American cut, which he reported was a welcome change; a succulent cut with a slightly different flavour and texture to what he was expecting.
We shared some indulgent and hearty sides to complement our steaks; a bowl of beef-dripping thick chips and truffled mac and cheese.
We were far too full to have a dessert each, but were persuaded to share the strawberry plate - a beautifully presented trio of panna cotta, sorbet and shortcake.
This definitely won't have been our last trip to Kyloe, which celebrates all things steak with chic yet unpretentious style and swift, friendly service.